Nahm Bangkok: It’s all about expectations
Nahm, by award-winning chef, David Thompson, is famous for being ranked as the Best Restaurant in Asia by UK’s Restaurant Magazine for 2014.
Needless to say, that when our friends scored lunch reservations (being guests of the hotel where it is situated); our spirits were high, and expectations, even higher.
It is said that Mr. Thompson has studied and drawn inspiration from ancient Thai cookbooks to revive centuries-old cooking methods and recipes. While I absolutely cannot claim to know too much about Thai cuisine (except that I am a big fan of those flavours), I could certainly get a sense of that from the menu – which had no signs of any of the well-known and popular Thai dishes.
To sample the chef’s mastery, we picked the set menu (THB 1500++ per person), which got us two canapes, one salad, one soup, one curry, one stir-fry/steamed/grilled dish and two desserts.
The amuse bouche was a pork, tamarind and palm sugar mixture served on a small piece of pineapple. It was a lovely blend of sweet and sour, and left us eagerly anticipating the meal to follow.
Next came the canapes – a thin crepe stuffed with prawn, coconut and pickled ginger and a crispy rice wafer topped with crab with peanuts and pickled garlic. We all agreed, in retrospect, that these were the highlights of the meal, simply for their unique and delightful combination of flavours.
The soups followed next – a clear soup of roast duck with Thai basil and young coconut for me, and hot and sour soup for the rest of our party. We’d just about had a bite of those, and the waiters brought out all of the other dishes – since Thai cuisine is meant to be had family style, and most dishes – whether soup, salad or curry, are eaten along with rice.
It was just as well, because the hot and sour soup was HOT (but yummy), so a quick dunking of some rice was surely needed. The duck soup, on the other hand was mild but intensely flavourful and went down easily by itself.
All four of us went for the salad next – chiang mai larp of guinea fowl, which turned out to be even HOTTER that the soup (that’s why they have salad with rice, DUH!). I gave up on the salad after a while, but Hubby and our friends went determinedly at it, watering eyes and running noses notwithstanding. No “toning down” to pander to westernized palates here (and I salute them for that!).
The mildly spicy minced chicken curry with yellow eggplants the slightly sweet yellow curry of cauliflower and tomatoes (for our crustacean allergy-afflicted friends) were more up my alley – delicious, and very different from the Thai curries I’ve had before.
The steamed coral trout with beans and pickled garlic, though gorgeous-looking, was a sad disappointment for all of us – it was totally bland and even the broth was completely lacking in any taste.
For dessert, there was a delicious sweet thai wafer with poached persimmons and duck egg noodles (which was gone all too quickly, in a single bite) and a refreshing mixture of thai fruits served in a cold and tangy syrup, that almost served as a palate cleanser.
Verdict
Did it live up to my expectations for the “best restaurant in Asia”?
Not quite.
Don’t get me wrong. It was good meal, just not “WOW”, except for a couple of dishes.
And that made it just a tad disappointing for me.
But then, the tag of the best restaurant (or top 10 or top 50 for that matter) is a heavy cross to bear. And let’s face it – it is dependent on individual palates, preferences and experiences, which are extremely subjective.
If I forgot about those expectations and simply looked back at the meal – it was an eye-opener; providing an exciting (and delicious) glimpse into the depth of Thai cuisine, beyond the usual array of raw papaya/ mango salads, Tom Yum/ Tom Kha soups, minced basil chicken/ pork, red/ green/ yellow curries, pad thai, etc.
Go expecting some unusual dishes, unique flavours and warm service in a pleasant ambience; and you certainly won’t be disappointed!
Lovely review. And I get what you mean by ‘Not quite’. We are likely to be visiting San Sebastian later this year for a special anniversary and we are debating trying out one of the biggies v/s up and coming chefs for the very same reason.
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enjoyed your review Kan – and I agree about the subjectivity of rating – but still – being dubbed with the “tag of the best restaurant” really is a big shoe to fill – and oh – I can picture the eyes watery front hat hot salad (and I never knew salads could be so hot- ha!- even though my husband can make a taco salad with so much hot sauce….) anyhow, there soup actually looked the best to me – and now I want some authentic Thai food….
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Excellent cuisine. I heard from my brother they serve the best seafood. 🙂
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oh wow, this looks absolutely delicious! 🙂 I got really hungry now…
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What gorgeous photos of the food. It looks delicious from this vantage point I must say. 🙂
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I love all those Thai flavours, and it’s interesting to see them used and presented in a unique way. How unfortunate that the last dish did not taste as good as it looked in your pic! 😦 Still 1500 baht for a meal like that is quite a steal, isn’t it!? Btw, I had a similar feeling when I dined at Iggy’s in Singapore. It was another one of those top 50 or 100 restaurants in the world ones, and while it was very good, I just wasn’t really wowed. It’s always hard to meet expectations I suppose…
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Yep. The price is certainly very reasonable! Thailand is amazing for the value for money it offers! You’re right. It’s hard to meet expectations… And the same meal may have felt amazing, had we not known about that ranking! Iggyys is on my must – try list. Usually in Singapore the service ends up disappointing me even if the food is good.
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Hmm, I think the service at Iggy’s was pretty good, if I remember correctly. 🙂
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Awesome… That’s half the battle won 🙂
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The presentation looks fab for Asian cuisine..I get hungry when seeing your pictures 😀 😀 That’s too bad it did not meet up your expectation..maybe the quality is going down after so many excellent appraisals 😦
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It was beautifully presented, Indah and very yummy! I was just expecting way tooo much, I think.
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Great photos, the dishes certainly look delicious. I wonder if the Nahm in HK Elements mall is part of the same chain? Because that place was a real disappointment.
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Thanks Peter!
I think I know the one you mean… it’s on the ground floor right? Nope, it’s not by the same chef.
Thompson used to have another restaurant called Nahm in London, which had received a Michelin star, but that’s been closed down.
Good Thai food is so difficult to find in HK… It’s such a pity 😦
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This looks like such a delicious meal, but sorry to hear you left the dinner feeling like it lacked something. The photos are really good, I felt like I was right there with you at the table. Even though it’s not your usually Thai food like the curries, it’s still spicy – no wonder many Asian meals are served with rice and salad as you suggested. I heard that tea also helps cool down your spicy tongue, and that water is the worst thing to drink when you’re eating spicy 😀
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It was a certainly a lovely meal, Mabel. And those canapes were outstanding! Glad you liked the photos. I made everyone wait while I took them… even though they were dying to attack the food 😉 I didn’t know about the effects of water and tea! I always reach for the water.
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All that hotness makes me want to try it out for real to see whether I can handle it..haha..but the food looks good in the photo at least! 😄
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It’s definitely worth trying, Sha. I love spicy food. I’m afraid I might have given the wrong impression with my closing. It was a lovely meal… It just didn’t blow me away as I expected that the ” best reataurant in Asia” might. Without the burdens of that tag… it was really good 🙂
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Oh yes, not to worry about the wrong impression, it still looked yummy to me..😄
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I took a cooking class in Chiang Mai, and know what you mean about HOT! Have been able to cook about four common dishes for friends since then, you know Pad Thai, sticky rice and stuff like that. I’m amazed at how so many different ingredients/spices can meld into a fine flavor. Thinking that the simple stuff, especially the street food, is best, especially after reading your review.
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Yes, absolutely. I’m Indian and we use a lot of spices and herbs… but the Thai ingredients are at a whole different level, I feel. And I like how quickly the food can be put together once you have all the right ingredients… we took a cooking class in Hua Hin and I cant wait to try some of those dishes myself. Your friends are lucky to have you cook for them 🙂
I have a high level of tolerance for spice, and love Sichuan food also… but that salad had me doing a double-take!
The meal was good, don’t get me wrong… and the dishes were what you won’t find easily on the streets. But the simple street food is amazing too!
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You may have been disappointed but my mouth is watering! I’d better get up and start the dinner – sadly not a scummy Thai meal.
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🙂
So what did you end up making for dinner?
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Oh dear. I wish you hadn’t asked. Fish fingers and chips. It was my lazy night. 😉
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